Moving through Kashmir

Episode 1 - Rohtang Fail,Rohtang Fail, Rohtang Pass!!

I begin our travails in our self-drive Innova (fondly referred to as Dhanno) and Dhiren(fondly referred to as Croc) on his bullet(sometimes referred to as the mean machine) from day 5 of our trip from Manali (Day 1 morning Delhi...Night at Ropar, Days 2,3,4...stuck in Manali!!!)

We had to spend 3 nights in Manali due to bad weather leading to massive landslides and heavy snow fall around the famous Rohtang Pass. On day 4 morning we finally got word that the pass was being opened and we were finally off on our Himalayan Safari.

Id like to mention that I have been to Manali twice before but had never managed to actually get to the Rohtang Pass connecting Manali with the Lahaul-Spiti Valley due to bad weather. This time I had to go right through it and get to Keylong(capital of Lahaul-Spiti).

As we got to the base of the pass we were greeted with a massive traffic jam consisting of atleast 100 stand still vehicles in front of us. Being a 2 wheeler, the bullet got through easily and we decided to meet up on the other side of the pass.We were soon told that cars stuck on the pass for the past 3 days would first be released and then we would be allowed to pass. Fair enough we thought and quietly got in queue on the narrow road keeping one lane free for opposing traffic. Soon enough, as expected, 3 SUVs with Haryana and Punjab number plates attempted to get to the front using the free lane. Fortunately, they were stopped by other drivers waiting in line before they could do much damage. The occupants of the SUVs, all gymmer-jocks wearing tight fitting Ts, dark glasses and sporting stubbles soon had to reverse and get to the back of the line. We could hear the standard arguments of "Oye tera Punjab ka number plate hai na... main sabko ko jaanta hu...to Punjab mein ghusne ki koshish to kar" haha....wish they had tried to give that logic to the huge army trucks soon to come through.

Eventually, post noon the traffic cleared and we slowly clawed our way to about 5 kms from the pass before further bad news hit. About 500mt from where we were, minor landslides were still going on very few minutes and there was so much slush and stones that going through the stretch was becoming increasingly difficult. I got down to see it for myself. A brown stretch of foot deep muck lay in front for about 50mts and a Tavera was stuck right in the middle. All tires of the car were deeply rooted in the muck and the base of the car firmly stuck to the ground and the stones.I could smell the rubber burning as the driver tried to force the car out. About 10-12 people had surrounded the car and were trying to literally shake it out. I was about to go and help them when suddenly I heard someone shout "bhaago...pattharrrr". As we all looked up the mountain we saw a dust cloud and a large boulder along with some small rocks come tumbling down. We all realised that it was going to miss the car and us by some distance and the efforts continued(minus me...cowardly me was still trying to muster up courage post the landslide). In a few seconds though that Tavera broke free and went past us followed by a truck and the truckdriver told me "Mat jao, aapki gaadi nahi niklegi". I went back to Sonu and asked her to take a look and decide for herself whether we should go through. I was thinking of my past Rohtang experiences and really wanted to beat it this time but just wanted a second opinion from Sonu. As we were talking I could conveniently hear SP Balasubramaniam crooning "Dhat tere ki...ab to jaan pe ban aayi...."...saala bala.

It was now about 5pm and most cars in front of us and behind us had turned back since and ppl wanting to enjoy Rohtang and return to Manali had all given up all hope. We on the other hand had to get to the other side and were determined to do so that very evening. As I got my chance I looked up...towards the mountain of course to check for any fresh landslides and crossed the muck on half clutch and heavy acceleration...Dhanno did splendidly. I almost wanted to put my hand out the window and high-five the people standing on the other side of the stretch but now that would be too filmy....even for me.

We soon crossed the Rohtang Pass but saw no sign of Croc. It was about 6:30pm and we realised that he should(not would) have crossed over at about 2pm and since it was freezing at the top we assumed that he would have carried on. After driving another 20kms or so downhill on horrible roads we finally reached the hamlet of Koksur at about 8pm(it gets dark really late there and 8pm was like nearing dusk). At the checkpost we saw the Croc screaming with joy as he saw us...Sonu jumped out of the slowing car to run and hug him. He was almost in tears since he had been waiting there since 3 without any warm clothes just hoping that we make it and finally we did.

What a place Koksur was! It stood over the Chandra river with snow capped mountains on each side as we could see the river flow on for miles towards the north. It was the first gorgeous non-commercialized place we had encountered till then and consisted of all of 20 huts including a police checkpost, a PWD guesthouse where croc had managed to get us a room, 2 dhabas and a wine shop 8-). We went straight to the wine shop and got us some rations and entered the dhaba with the bottles for some warm food(maggie and rajma chawal, what else) and well deserved drinks.

Croc went on to tell us his story of being stuck in the muck during a landslide and being helped across by some locals. He also told us that he had practically asked every car going through Koksur if they had seen an Innova coming this way....almost all of them replied with "agar Himachal ki gaadi aur driver nahi hai to nahi pohochegi". Hum to pohoch gaye and we toasted to that. Rohtang pass ho gaya!